Thursday 6/14/01

The car is nearly packed (packing list) by 10 pm. 

Friday 6/15/01

Spent all day on last minute details and yard work. 5:10 pm left Pullman. Wanted to leave at noon, but Laurie just couldn't get off early. Made good time to Riggins, water seemed low. Some construct ~10 mi S. 8:10 pm drove through New Meadows. We drove in a rotation of about 2 hours each.

Saturday 6/16

2:15 am arrived Winimuca, Laurie took over driving. I slept and have yet to see what is between Winnemucca and Hawthorn. She said freeway construction slowed her to 55 part of the way. Idaho speed limits 60, 65; NV 65, 70 on wide open 2 lane roads, 75 on freeway CA 55-65. 3:00 pm arrived at Mexican boarder, 1210 miles since Pullman. Average speed = 55 mph. Found only one place at border with diesel. Mara's Pesos gave us 4450 pesos for $500.00. Following an unplanned tour of Tijuana including a mucho granda tope (GIANT speed bump), we arrived at 4:15 in Ensenada and another unplanned tour. After we asked for help at the visitors information booth, we quickly got the tourist form filled in, paid at bank (you'll have to ask Laurie about getting locked in), and stamped with no hassle at immigration office.

We still managed to sit down for dinner at 5:30 pm at the exceptional Haliotis restaurant. Haliotis is Greek for abalone - I don't know why, the restaurant wasn't Greek. It is now 8:20 pm. Laurie is about asleep in our tent at Lo Jolla beach camp near La Bufadora 20 miles southwest of Ensenada. It is about 60% Mexican campers and they freely play music--loud. Locals are on the beaches Saturday evening and Sundays, but rarely see anyone any other time. Tuba is the instrument de jour- ah the joys of earplugs. Plan to get up at 4:30 quietly (heh-heh) and head for playa Los Cocos, south of Mulege.

25 hours since leaving Pullman WA, at Lo Jolla beach camp

Sunday 6/17

The earplugs were too effective; I woke up at 5:30 we were on the road at 6.

Arrive Guerrero Negro about 1:00. We have lunch at Malarrimo's (the same place we and the Busbooms arranged for a  whale watching expedition last year), get fuel, giant scallops called Mano de Leon (paw of the lion), and groceries. We buzz on past San Ignacio, Santa Rosilia, and Mulege, arrived at the Playa Escondida just east of Playa Los Cocos at 6:00 pm.

It isn't as clean as Los Cocos but is further from Mex 1, thus quieter. Though the Bahia Concepcion is known to locals as the 'brick oven,' this is a wonderful evening, 85° 55% humidity, water is 90°, a most relaxing place for a dip. In the string of about 35 palapas we are near one end and another couple at the other - no one else here and it is free. We make Thai noodles with the scallops - great. 7 pm terns, and pelicans are diving just a few yards from the palapa, and Cormorants soaring far above.

Looking out a Palapa at Playa Los Cocos in the Bahia Concepcion 

Monday 6/18

The sun is up at 6 am - the temperature in the tent quickly goes above 85 - I'm out-a-there. Laurie sleeps 'till 9. I fill the kayak, pick up, put away, make espresso, prepare breakfast, and park the car in a neighboring palapa. Following pancakes we kayak out to a couple islands, snorkeling and swimming at each. One had a sand beach so we stayed there a while. By about 2:30 we are back and just snacked and lazed. 

Playa Escondida, Bahia Concepcion 

Later a huge conflagration of pelicans develops a short distance out. Arriving from every direction, they queue up directly overhead 5-7 wide 10-15 in a row, they dive-bomb the middle of the pack of ~200. Eventually they decide there's no reason for the gathering and slowly leave.

We decide to drive back to Mulege for dinner. In getting dressed we realize that despite the 30 wt. sunscreen, snorkeling and kayaking left us with unique patterns for sunburns. I recommend that anyone visiting Mexico have at least a light tan everywhere. Dinner at las Equipales is cheap, scrumptious, and plentiful as all Mexican dinners should be.

Tuesday 6/19

We shove the tent into the palapa and sleep under the stars. We've come to the conclusion that old fashion folding cots would be best in Baja, allowing air flow above and below while keeping you away from crabs and ground insects. Most nights a sheet is plenty warm.

1:00 am Nice breeze but I'm awake. The 1 foot waves break white on the beach. I put my glasses on, the larger waves break silver and the smaller ones are barely visible, then I recall reading in sailing magazines about the phosphorescing plankton in the bow wave of boats. It's a pretty cool effect--the larger waves simply glow in the night.

4:00 am I'm too hot to sleep, the wind has stopped, the Sea of Cortez is flat. It is 80°+ a 'clothing optional' night, so I head directly into the water made cooler by night wind and waves. My toes sparkle as they enter. As I fully immerse, sculling to stay upright, the plankton put on a show. The faster I move, the greater the number of bacteria that light up. They stay lit for 4 to 10 inches, allowing me to see the currents created by my movements.

5:00 am it is barely dawn. Pelicans begin to skim the surface diving for their prey, behind me in the desert seemingly devoid of animals; I hear the song of dozens of birds - at least 2 species. I get an hour more sleep.

Wednesday 6/20

We lazily break camp, taking quick dips to cool off, and head for Loreto. We discover a couple more really nice undeveloped sand beaches along Mex 1 in the Bahia Concepcion.

Arrive at Loreto at 2:30. The town, established 1697, is the oldest in western North America. The entire town can't be more than 20' above high tide, no wonder it was destroyed by a chubasco (big storm) in 1829. Loreto is the ultimate example of the failed Mexican government belief that "if you build it they will come." With a fancy 'Mexican' overpass (there is no bridge), a broad boulevard with green grass (that has to cost a fortune) and palm trees in the median, it is a city that wants to 'be somebody'. We are not overly impressed - it is neither quaint like Mulege nor a real city like La Paz.

We have fish tacos. Okay, it isn't one of those cheesy roadside stands - we'll work up to those. We do some shopping, but don't buy anything. At 40 pesos, the historical museum at the mission is worthwhile. The Mission itself was closed for siesta.

Loreto Coconut Palms


Loreto Mission

South of town we stop at Juncalito beach. It is a nice bay to anchor, but the beach is mostly gravel. The site was filthy, though--the worst we've ever seen in Baja. Some of the garbage had been burned, it smells bad. We move on to Playa Ligui, a nice beach shared at one end with local fisherman and their pongas. Exactly 2000 miles since Pullman. No one else here and free. A rock hill to the east provides morning shade; the desert bush is tall enough to provide daytime shade - no palapas. With many nearby islands, this would be a good place to explore next time. We keep the tent open too late and without knowing are eaten by noseeums.

Thursday 6/21

Leave camp at 9:00 am. We skip La Paz. Next time ignore the maps, books, and road signs and turn RIGHT, towards Cabo, in FRONT of the giant dove / whale statue.

2:30 arrive Todos Santos. It's a nice town with no grandeos scheme to separate you from your pesos. We first take a driving tour, then park in town. We visit the mission (free and the door is open.) There are lots of shops; Laurie buys a nice sterling bracelet for 200 pesos. (We are celebrating our silver anniversary with this trip). We have dinner at the 5 star Cafe Santa Fe (Italian / Mediterranean). I had Mahi Mahi and Laurie clam linguini. It was excellent, but expensive - 800 pesos for a 5 course meal with drinks and desert, accepts VISA. 7.2 mi S. of town we camp at Playa Las Cabrillas. The RV Park was closed, beach camping free, no facilities. Lots of surfers and a surf shop with boogie boards and wet suits to rent. Water 67°, air 85 humid, breezy.

Friday 6/22

Cooled to 70 by morning, lots of condensation on the tent fly. Pancakes for breakfast, leave at 9:15. In preparation for Cabo beaches, we wear swim suits under clothing. Arrive Cabo San Lucas before noon, drive around - not impressed.  Cops on every downtown corner. We drive about 1/2 way to San Jose del Cabo to snorkel Playa Santa Marie. There is a guard at the parking lot. The air is hot, the water is cold 65-70, fairly clear and it is good place to snorkel. Mostly Americans here from the resorts that ring the beach. Party sail and powerboats anchor in the bay, let the passengers snorkel then leave, as do we. We like San Jose del Cabo more; we have lunch at the very nice Tropicana hotel and cafe, then shop.

Friday-Monday 6/22-24

We arrive at Cabo Pulmo after 6. Spend 5 days here, 2 nights at Cabo Pulmo Resort bungalows $65, $85, or $100 (off season prices non-summer price is $20 more), and 2 nights on beach 4.5 miles south - free. We lunch at the beachside 'Palapas' 3 fish tacos and 3 shrimp special tacos - average.  We also try Nancy's Restaurant which was very good.

The whole area is a marine reserve, and the best snorkeling so far. We saw more new fish species than we’d seen total previously. We kayak 1 day here, too. Air day 90°, night 70°, water 80° near beach, 70° further out. Visibility was 30' - best we've experienced - but poor for Cabo Pulmo. More Cabo Pulmo Pictures

Wednesday we snorkel up to a group untanned tourists about 1/2 mile from the parking area. They had to have paid big bucks: Ponga skipper, professional diver, Ice chests of food and drink, and large umbrellas setup for shade on their 'secret beach.' I walked over and started a conversation: "Where are you all from", no response. "What no English speakers here?", "Yes, yes" It was like pulling teeth. Eventually I learned they were from British Columbia, Colorado, and Seattle area. They were pretty surprised to hear we DROVE here from Washington State. " We camp on the beaches - free", they were amazed. One of them came back "What do you do for showers?" Huh? Apparently she'd never been camping, "We get in the ocean. Since soap doesn't work, we wash with liquid dish detergent." They were shocked (of course that was the idea).

Tuesday we meet Kevin and Kelly from Colorado. We share stories of travels in Baja over s'mores. They tell us about Hotel Pasada san Miguel in downtown La Paz, the turtle restoration preserve at Bahia de los Angeles, and lobsters at Puerto Nuevo.

Monday 6/25/01

12:00 Find Hotel Pasada san Miguel in downtown La Paz (more Pictures), 133 pesos ($12.00), it was 'clean' (Laurie was not impressed), had a bed, bathroom, a fan, and not much else. 

We’d heard about the car washers on every corner, no exaggeration. They have 2 buckets, some rags, and hutspah. Any car that looks dirty to them gets washed. They don't ask, but they do expect to be paid. I watched a couple Mexicans pay, they handed over bills, so it was either 20 or 50 pesos. We decided to be proactive.  Our car washer was a non-English speaker, but Laurie's miniscule Spanish established our deal. "¿quanto cuetsa?" "Ventecinco" - cheap.  We give him 25 pesos (about $2.50) and an ice cold Snapple. Half-hour later the car is clean.

There is a lot of good shopping and we both buy some clothing. Nearly all stores were either swamp cooled or air conditioned, which is a good thing since it was over 100° all day. La Paz is known for its shoe stores. We found every kind of shoe, boot, sandal, dress or casual. If we had more pesos we probably would have bought a couple pair each.

La Paz follows the siesta tradition, so most non-restaurants were closed 1-4. It also has many ice cream stands. We sample a more upscale shop. I have a mocha drink, Laurie a strawberry slushy type thing. Maybe it was the heat, but they were incredibly good. 

We head back to the hotel. The bed is directly under the window. The window swings open (no screen) with wrought iron bars with 4" gaps - just enough room for someone on the balcony to reach in and grab you around the neck. We try a couple settings and positions for the floor fan but nothing seems to help. So I take the chair, put it outside under the window with the fan on top. Finally, some relief.

I can't sleep, it's 10 pm and 90° in the room. I head down to the pop machine on the street where it is a cool 85. I move the car closer to the hotel and wander around a bit--the sidewalks are rolled up. I head back to the hotel. Barely asleep, the light outside our room comes on and someone is looking in the window jabbering something in Spanish about banditos. We figure he's worried about his fan, we tell him to go away and turn off the light!

This was barely better than camping. (Laurie says NOT better than camping), but we meet a bunch of interesting travelers here and experience a really cheap hotel. It's all part of the adventure - right? However, unless you're dieing for such an experience, I suggest you get hotel with air conditioning, because La Paz is a very interesting, but hot place to visit.

Tuesday 6/26/01

At 6 am it is still 80. We leave the room at 6:30 am and La Paz at 7:00 am. Arrive Loreto about 11, do some shopping. I buy a fantastic serving dish for my paellea. Laurie got heart shaped earrings in silver and lapis. Arrive at Playa Los Cocos about 1:30 and briefly debate staying, but it is 100 degrees in the shade and the water is 98. We move on to the Pacific Ocean side of Baja. We buzz on past Mulege, Santa Rosilia, and San Ignacio. Arrived at Vizcaino, 25 miles from Guerrero Negro. We fill one last time at a nice Pemex (they all take only pesos cash). We are down to $27 U.S, 185 pesos (we'll need  63 pesos to pay tolls north of Ensenada.) Knowing central Baja doesn't take VISA, we are cutting it close. We head for Scammon's  Lagoon which is either free or cheap. Scammon was a whaler who discovered these lagoons--the breeding grounds for the gray whale.  In 28 years they nearly decimated the population of 25,000 whales worldwide to about 5000. Now there are as many or more gray whales than in Scammon's time. We drive 4 miles SW into flat barren desert and hit a roadblock set up by the Guerrero Negro salt company, it's back to Mex 1.

Arrive at Malarrimo's in Guerrero Negro. Camping is $10.00. They can't break a 20, so we give them 80 pesos plus $1.00 - close enough. By 7 pm we have a dinner of guacamole and chips. Here is our guacamole recipe.

Wednesday 6/27

9:10 leave for the boarder, stop a couple times for photos of the desert. Just North of Cativina a bus is off the road.  We are the third vehicle to arrive. By the time Laurie looks up how to say "I am a nurse", there are 6 cars stopped and people are crawling out the windows and sliding down the side of the bus. To Laurie's immense relief, no one is seriously injured, so we move on.

We stop to eat at the lobster capital of the world (that's what the sign says) 40 miles north of Ensenada at Puerto Nuevo. Dozens of restaurants compete for our lobster dollar. Laurie has a large grilled lobster, $10.95, I have grilled lobster, fish, shrimp $12.95. Comes with chips, salsa, guacamole, rice, beans, salad, and tortillas. We pay with pesos and dollars since we don't have enough of either to cover dinner. Takes 1/2 hour to go through customs line - very fast. We have $4.00 and 23 pesos left. 3500 miles since we left Pullman. At 7:00 pm we were in the Travel Lodge in San Ysidro where the room is clean, there's AC, you can put toilet paper in the toilets instead of wastebasket, the shower is more than a dribble, and you can drink the water straight from the tap.

Thursday 6/28

That about wraps it up for our Mexico trip. A couple days early, we go home the long way and leave San Ysidro at 9:50 am. In the left lane everyone goes 80. Taking I-5 we're in Redding by 9:00.  Friday we went to Crater Lake. I put shoes on for the first time in two weeks. Spent Saturday and Sunday at friends Rob and Laurie Boyd, Redmond OR. Arrive home Sunday July 1, 9:10 pm.

Crater Lake.

Miles / Time

to border via Nevada: 1210 mi / 21:50
to border via Bend I-5: 1410 mi / 
Border to Cabo: 1150 mi / 
Total Miles: 4920 

Fuel:

Books

We have the books in Bold

AAA Baja California - AAA 227 pages We used this book a lot.

AAA Baja Travel Guidebook - AAA, 235 pages, 1994. A concise easy to follow guide to the services along the major roads of Baja. Updated yearly. $7.95 

Baja Camping - Fred and Gloria Jones, 230 pages, 2000 - A required book if you are remote camping or looking for established campgrounds - we descovered it to be out of date some of the 'established' campgrounds were permanently closed.

Baja Catch - Kirra. Best available guide to fishing in Baja. Includes remote fish camps. If you want to camp cheap or free in undeveloped areas you need this book - the best - even if you don't fish. Includes maps for where to go for specific types of fish. $19.95 

Baja Adventure Book - Peterson, 264 pages, 1992. Detailed information on where to backpack, bike, climb, kayak, cave, board sail, etc. Also information on general travel concerns and history. $19.95 

Baja! - Peacock, 1991. Celebrates the extraordinary natural beauty and appeal of the peninsula and desert islands of the Sea of Cortez. Color photos, coffee table size. $40 

Baja California (Lonely Planet) - Wayne, 290 pages, 1994. A slim volume offering a basic travel guide to traveling from Tijuana south through the peninsula to the resort towns at the tip of Baja. It touches on a range of places , from rural villages to resort cities. $14.95 

Baja California Handbook (Moon Publications) - Cummings, 325 pages, 1994. Similar to the Lonely Planet series. Both include maps and photos. $15.95 

Baja California Diver's Guide - Farley. Covers dive sites, color marine identification and dive shops. $14.95 

Baja California Plant Field Guide (Natural History Publishing) - Roberts, 309 pages, 1989. The definitive guide to the fantastic variety and uniqueness found in Baja's plant life. Over 300 plants are described, 295 are shown in full color. $22.95 

Baja Highway - Minch/Leslie, 233 pages, 1991. A geology and field guide for the Baja highway traveler. Illustrated, 8 1/2 x 11 format. $19.95 

Bicycling Baja (Sunbelt Publishers) - Wong, 248 pages, 1988. Information any cyclist (or driver) needs to comfortably explore Baja. Mile by mile road log provides details on food, water and hills. $12.95 

The Cabo Handbook (Moon Publications) - Cummings, 1995. The author of The Baja Handbook has expanded information on the Cape Loop, that area between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. $14.95 

Field Guide to Gray Whales - 50 pages, 1989. Background information on whales, tips on whale watching, where to watch along the Pacific Coast. $5.95 

Into a Desert Place - Mackintosh. Winner of the Adventurous Traveler of the Year Award. An exciting account of the author's 3000 mile walk around the coast of Baja. $24.95 

Keep It Moving - Fons, 305 pages, 1986. The author recounts her canoe trip circumnavigating Baja's waters. An encouraging and exciting tale in which she overcomes her fears. $16.95 

Marine Animals of Baja - Gotshall, 100 pages, 1987. Lots of color photos. Good for snorkelers, divers, naturalists, biologists. $20.95 

Sea Kayaking in Baja - Romano-Lax, 150 pages, 1993. Describes 15 trips along Baja's Sea of Cortez coastline. $13.95 

Sea of Cortez Guide - Brow. A comprehensive handbook with 115 photos and 96 detailed charts for Mexico's Sea of Cortez, from San Felipe to Cabo San Lucas. $19.95 

Web sites

http://www.baja-web.com/

http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/4888/ 

http://www.bajatravel.com/guidebook/home.html